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Herb Reed's Tip...Slow Down that Slug-Go®! | |
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Slug-Go® is exciting and fun to fish near the surface, where you can see the lure react to your rod tip motions, and where you can see the fish react to your lure. But that excitement level isn't without a price. Often, there are a lot more fish just out of range on the basis of depth or activity-level that won't come up within visible striking range, or simply won't respond to an aggressive action. Take advantage of the fish's aggressiveness when they'll let you, but don't put down the Slug-Go when the fish are a little less willing to show themselves. Instead, just slow it down and work it a little deeper. Add an Insert Weight or BellyWeight, especially if it's breezy. Most important though, increase the length of time between twitches or jerks. Let the lure glide down and settle into the fish's world, instead of trying to force the fish to come up and chase. Remember, Slug-Go®'s incredible productivity stems in large measure from its ability to evoke the same response as an injured baitfish. Injured baitfish run out of steam. Letting your Slug-Go® do the same is the natural extension of your attempts to convince the predator that the lure is weak, injured or disoriented prey. How long you might want to pause between twitches, and how far you might want to let it sink, depend on the conditions. I usually wait 5 to 10 seconds after every 4 or 5 twitches, to let the lure settle. But it's not unheard of to catch fish letting it drift free for 20 seconds or more after every twitch! Over the long haul, you'll catch more fish and bigger fish if your first reaction when the fish stop hitting a Slug-Go® or one of our Fin-S® baits, is to just let it sink farther between twitches, instead of putting it down and trying something else. |
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Check your lure's action the way it moves when you fish it |
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Often, I see anglers rig up a lure and then to see how it works in the water, they swish it back and forth with their rod tip, next to the boat. When it comes to plastic worms, grubs, jigs and so forth, that doesn't tell you anything. Most of your strikes with lures like that are generated on the sink, not while they're being pulled through the water a million miles an hour. If you really want to see how it works, let it sink naturally instead of pulling it back and forth. How an action tailed bait works is affected by how fast it falls, and how much weight is pulling it down, even how heavy your line is. The HydroTail worms are the only mass produced action tail worm that "works" consistently with only the weight of the worm hook to pull it down for instance. That may not matter much when you're flipping with a half-ounce slip sinker pegged to the worm, but what about those times when you're using a 1/8 ounce weight or when you're skipping an unweighted worm rig under docks, or just kind of nudging an action-tail grub along the bottom on a 1/16 ounce head? What about Carolina rigging? With a leader between the weight and the lure, once the rig is in position, all that sinks the lure when you pause is that hook. The lack of weight and the slow fall are a big part of why a Carolina Rig works sometimes. Don't make the mistake of limiting its effectiveness with a worm or lizard that doesn't "work" at that critical time. There's only one worm on the market with a tail designed specifically to "work" with only the weight of the hook pulling the worm through the water the Lunker City HydroTail worm. | ||