Terry Baksay's tips...
Unless the water is really off-color, the Slug-Go® is a great lure in rivers or any situation where you're fishing in current. Fish that live in current use more energy, and must eat more often to accommodate for it, so they seem to spend more time on-feed in shallow water. To a Slug-Go® fan, fish that are on-feed in shallow water are fish that are within Slug-Go® range, so they get me really excited.
In really clear water, where you're most likely to be fishing smallies, if the current's not moving too fast I like an alewife (#1) or gold pepper shiner (#32) 4" Slug-Go®, and I fish it pretty much the same way you would fish it in a lake fishing situation, casting past a target, and working the lure into position. Other than the fact that most of the objects you're working are identified by the bulge or eddy they create on the surface, the big difference is that you have to take the natural drift into account when you target your cast, because every time you pause, it will drift downstream a little. It takes a little experimenting to learn how far upstream to aim as you cast cross-current, so the bait will drift down just far enough as you work it toward the target. I always weight the Slug-Go® with an InsertWeight too, to keep it from drifting past the target without ever getting down to the fish's level. The difference between fishing the lure just under the surface and getting it down a foot or so may seem insignificant to us, but it evidently means a lot to the fish.
In dingier or faster moving water, I want a more visible lure, to help the fish notice and track it, so I switch to bubblegum (#15), and if largemouth are the target species, to a 6" Slug-Go®. For largemouth, I pay more attention to cover and to current breaks that create a real slack water spot, and I try to let the Slug-Go 4®drift into position. With largemouth tucked in behind cover or breaks in a river, I'm more concerned with getting it right in their face than with how fancy I make it move. If it drifts in naturally, they'll usually try to eat it.
Whenever they go to a flipping style presentation, most bass fishermen think of dark colored lures, whether it's Texas rigged worm or a jig and trailer of some kind. But when I'm working the deep water edge of milfoil or hydrilla in the summer, I expect to find fish that are keying on shad or alewives instead of the crawfish that dark colored jigs or plastics imitate. So I tune my presentation to fish that are feeding on baitfish.
One effective way to do that is with a White Satin (#68) Piggy Back on a white living rubber jig. It's important to not let it just sink to the bottom like you usually do when you're flipping, but to give it some sharp, upward twitches as it sinks, to add some action and more of a swimming motion. The shape of the Piggy Backs' body is designed to plane more than a standard trailer, so it helps create that swimming motion a little better, instead of just going up and down. The pearly white color moving through the water is kind of a universal, baitfish cue I guess, and if you keep it moving erratically, fish eating baitfish react to it very readily.
In clear water, it can take more than the right movement and color to get fish to mistake a lure flipped into weed holes and pockets for a baitfish. That's when a more life-like baitfish profile and appearance is important. To me, that means the 4" and 5" Fin-S Shad. The chunky body makes the lure much more resilient and durable in the heavy vegetation, and the overal profile is exactly what the fish are looking for. Arkansas Shiner(#6) is a great all around color pattern, but especially in really clear water, I usually do better with something that has a hint of blue in it. The Blue Phantom (#101) and Smelt (#116) colors are tremendous producers. I peg a heavy slip sinker to the line ahead of it and rig it on a 3/0 or 4/0 Texposer hook.
With either the jig or the Fin-S Shad, I just flip it to the hole using an All-Star Flipping Stick spooled with heavy superbraid. The braided line's no-stretch quality makes it easy to pop the lure free of the weeds whenever it hangs a little. Then I let it sink a couple feet and start jiggling it and popping it back up a little. Sometimes you've got to let it get right down to the base of the weeds, but most of the time, when the fish in this situation are keying on baitfish, they hang right under the dense canopy of weeds at the surface, so a lot of the time, I never let it sink more than a few feet before I lift it out to work the next hole or pocket.